Sunday, November 15, 2009
Happy Birthsecond to Me!
Today, I celebrate my 1,000,000,000th birthsecond yup that's right folks. I was born 1,000,000,000 seconds ago today. Unfortunately, I can't tell you which second it was specifically, because I'm just too lazy to calculate it, but since I was born around 6am, I think it should be around 7 or 8am.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Black Christ Festival
A couple of weeks ago I headed to the Black Christ Festival in Portobelo, and I gotta say if you are ever down here on October 21st you should definitely go. I went with Seth and Nikki who are a couple of my fellow volunteers here in Coclé. We arrived in Portobelo a little after noon, and spent the next few hours wandering around town and sampling the street meat. Portobelo has two of the oldest Spanish forts in Panama, and was one of the major points of transit for Spanish gold as it was leaving the New World. The area surrounding Portobelo is gorgeous, and I believe with a little work from the government, they could turn Portobelo into a great tourist destination. The problem currently is that signage and information describing Portobelos historical importance are lacking. There are a few signs but they mainly give dates and lack historical context.
But that was not why we were there. We were there for the festival, and the festival was amazing.
People make a pilgrimage from all over Panama in handmade purple robes (though most are afro-antilleanos from Colon province.) They walk to Portobelo, and once they reach the town borders, they crawl the rest of the way on hands and knees. Some remove their robes and have hot wax from candles dripped on their back as penance while they crawl. Usually they work in teams with a friend or relative carrying an image of the black christ in front and shouting words of encouragement while another drips hot wax. Some woment crawl with their children on their back or stomach (people crab walk, when their knees become bloody.)
The pilgrims arrive all day until Mass at 7pm. After Mass, the statue of the Black Christ is removed from the church an carried around town in a procession until midnight when the statue re-enters the church. Afterwards, the whole town parties until 3 am. The whole experience was amazing and incredibly. 40,000 people descended on a town of only 2000, and only a handful of us were gringos. The best word to describe it is authentic, you can really feel the emotion and strength of belief from the pilgrims. You get the feeling that this is a celebration by the people, for the people, as opposed to a celebration by the Church for the people.
With that said, on to the photos...
The first of two forts overlooking the harbor. Portobelo is located inside a natural harbor.
This is the second fort and closer to town. People are allowed to go wherever they like inside the forts.
Looking down on "downtown" Portobelo. About 2,000 people live in Portobelo.
Seth and Nikki demonstrating the Panamanian shirt roll.
Sitting in a window of one forts. One of the few places that didn't smell like urine. With 40,000 people and no port-a-potties, the forts did double duty.
A man crawls through the entrance of the church as a woman drips hot wax on his back.
A group of pilgrims in their purple robes enters the church.
The Black Christ himself. Behind him is a statue of James helping him carry the cross. Unfortunately, this photo doesn't give a good idea of the size of the platform he stands on, but its large and heavy.
Worshippers carrying homade idols of the Black Christ. Many of these were carried in front of pilgrims as they crawled for inspiration. It's hard to see, but many were blinged out with christmas tree lights and at least one black light.
These men are carrying the platform that holds the Black Christ. There were approximately 30-40 men per side to carry the platform.
A view from a balcony as the procession marches down the street
What a view to wake up to. Five minutes after waking up, I was swimming off the end of the pier. During the festival, we ran into another group of volunteers who had a friend with a house near Portobelo, and we ended up spending the night at his place. Thanks Humberto!
But that was not why we were there. We were there for the festival, and the festival was amazing.
People make a pilgrimage from all over Panama in handmade purple robes (though most are afro-antilleanos from Colon province.) They walk to Portobelo, and once they reach the town borders, they crawl the rest of the way on hands and knees. Some remove their robes and have hot wax from candles dripped on their back as penance while they crawl. Usually they work in teams with a friend or relative carrying an image of the black christ in front and shouting words of encouragement while another drips hot wax. Some woment crawl with their children on their back or stomach (people crab walk, when their knees become bloody.)
The pilgrims arrive all day until Mass at 7pm. After Mass, the statue of the Black Christ is removed from the church an carried around town in a procession until midnight when the statue re-enters the church. Afterwards, the whole town parties until 3 am. The whole experience was amazing and incredibly. 40,000 people descended on a town of only 2000, and only a handful of us were gringos. The best word to describe it is authentic, you can really feel the emotion and strength of belief from the pilgrims. You get the feeling that this is a celebration by the people, for the people, as opposed to a celebration by the Church for the people.
With that said, on to the photos...
The first of two forts overlooking the harbor. Portobelo is located inside a natural harbor.
This is the second fort and closer to town. People are allowed to go wherever they like inside the forts.
Looking down on "downtown" Portobelo. About 2,000 people live in Portobelo.
Seth and Nikki demonstrating the Panamanian shirt roll.
Sitting in a window of one forts. One of the few places that didn't smell like urine. With 40,000 people and no port-a-potties, the forts did double duty.
A man crawls through the entrance of the church as a woman drips hot wax on his back.
A group of pilgrims in their purple robes enters the church.
The Black Christ himself. Behind him is a statue of James helping him carry the cross. Unfortunately, this photo doesn't give a good idea of the size of the platform he stands on, but its large and heavy.
Worshippers carrying homade idols of the Black Christ. Many of these were carried in front of pilgrims as they crawled for inspiration. It's hard to see, but many were blinged out with christmas tree lights and at least one black light.
These men are carrying the platform that holds the Black Christ. There were approximately 30-40 men per side to carry the platform.
A view from a balcony as the procession marches down the street
What a view to wake up to. Five minutes after waking up, I was swimming off the end of the pier. During the festival, we ran into another group of volunteers who had a friend with a house near Portobelo, and we ended up spending the night at his place. Thanks Humberto!
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Quebrada Grande Menagerie
Buenos Dias! I know it´s been a while since I last updated, so if you´re still reading the blog, thanks for sticking with it. I´ve got a year in review post coming up in a few weeks that will have more comment, but for now here are some pictures from Quebrada Grande.
After exiting the forest while following a very narrow trail, I looked down to find this guy crawling on my shoulder. You might not be able to tell from this photo, but the stick bug was about 6-8" long.
One of the golden-hooded tanagers that have been flying around my house the last few days. In person the yellows and blues are even more vivid.
A blue-headed parrot. These guys prefer to hangout at the tops of trees and like the sloths don´t like to have their photos taken.
Unfortuntately, these guys don´t bring fruit loops.
After months of searching, I finally found some sloths living in my site. Unfortunately, they don´t like to pose for photos, so you´ll have to put up with these fuzzy ones.
After exiting the forest while following a very narrow trail, I looked down to find this guy crawling on my shoulder. You might not be able to tell from this photo, but the stick bug was about 6-8" long.
One of the golden-hooded tanagers that have been flying around my house the last few days. In person the yellows and blues are even more vivid.
A blue-headed parrot. These guys prefer to hangout at the tops of trees and like the sloths don´t like to have their photos taken.
Unfortuntately, these guys don´t bring fruit loops.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
School Anniversary
CEBG (Centro Educativo Basico Grado, ie "school") Quebrada Grande recently celebrated it's 15th birthday, and threw a party.
That's Jesus' daughter Yadi (and her escorts), showing off her dance moves as out-going queen of the school.
Watching the ring toss. Throw a quarter sized ring over the top of a seco bottle from outside the railings and you win the bottle.
Jesus watching the ring toss (intently.)
That's Jesus' daughter Yadi (and her escorts), showing off her dance moves as out-going queen of the school.
Watching the ring toss. Throw a quarter sized ring over the top of a seco bottle from outside the railings and you win the bottle.
Jesus watching the ring toss (intently.)
Family Visit
The family came for a visit a while back and I haven't had a chance to post the photos yet so here they are.
Fletch, Dad, and I at Mirasflores Locks.
Fletch and Lauren on the Amador Causeway at Sunset.
My kitchen.
The family hiking around Quebrada Grande.
Jesus' family and the rest of us.
Fletch, Dad, and I at Mirasflores Locks.
Fletch and Lauren on the Amador Causeway at Sunset.
My kitchen.
The family hiking around Quebrada Grande.
Jesus' family and the rest of us.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Peace Corps Panama in the News
http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-peacecorps2-2009jun02,0,2239945.story
Here's a link to an LA Times article talking about two of my fellow volunteers here in Panama. Alex is one of my fellow Group 62ers and Yemiymah is the Regional Leader for Panama Este and the Darien.
Here's a link to an LA Times article talking about two of my fellow volunteers here in Panama. Alex is one of my fellow Group 62ers and Yemiymah is the Regional Leader for Panama Este and the Darien.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
The Good
My house is done! I'm currently in the process of furnishing it, but it's ready to move into as soon as I head back to my site. I've already got the bed, mattress, and stove. The house looks fantastic and I really appreciate all the hard work the community has put in to helping me build it.
The Bad
It turns out I've been infected by the leishmanisis bacteria, aka The Leish. What does this mean? Well the Leish is like one of those rude house guests that doesn't go away. He doesn't do much, but he doesn't leave. I've got 2 dime-sized scabs on my other arm where I was bitten by an infected chitra (or sand fly.) The scabs don't hurt, and don't cause much harm, though they'll eventually leave a nasty scar. But, they can take up to 2 years to disappear on their own. Their is also a small chance that the virus can mutate into a more harmful form that attacks the cartilage in the body if it is left untreated. Unfortunately, this is one of those diseases where the treatment is worse than the disease. The standard treatment is a 30 minute IV drip everyday for 20 days. This means that sometime in the next month, I'll be heading to Panama City for 3 weeks of treatment. However, I should stress that the disease isn't that big of a deal healthwise, and while it is exceedingly rare in the US, Peace Corps and the hospital here have a lot of experience with it. So no need for you all to worry.
The Ugly
Pics of the Leish on my arm. (Ok, the pictures are still to come, but they should be here in another day or so.)
My house is done! I'm currently in the process of furnishing it, but it's ready to move into as soon as I head back to my site. I've already got the bed, mattress, and stove. The house looks fantastic and I really appreciate all the hard work the community has put in to helping me build it.
The Bad
It turns out I've been infected by the leishmanisis bacteria, aka The Leish. What does this mean? Well the Leish is like one of those rude house guests that doesn't go away. He doesn't do much, but he doesn't leave. I've got 2 dime-sized scabs on my other arm where I was bitten by an infected chitra (or sand fly.) The scabs don't hurt, and don't cause much harm, though they'll eventually leave a nasty scar. But, they can take up to 2 years to disappear on their own. Their is also a small chance that the virus can mutate into a more harmful form that attacks the cartilage in the body if it is left untreated. Unfortunately, this is one of those diseases where the treatment is worse than the disease. The standard treatment is a 30 minute IV drip everyday for 20 days. This means that sometime in the next month, I'll be heading to Panama City for 3 weeks of treatment. However, I should stress that the disease isn't that big of a deal healthwise, and while it is exceedingly rare in the US, Peace Corps and the hospital here have a lot of experience with it. So no need for you all to worry.
The Ugly
Pics of the Leish on my arm. (Ok, the pictures are still to come, but they should be here in another day or so.)
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Experimenting with Skype
Friends, Family, and Anonymous Readers,
I've decided to start trying to keep in touch with people using Skype. Skype is a multi-platform computer program that allows users to make computer-to-computer voice and/or video phone calls for free as long as both computers are using the program. The program can be downloaded here:
http://skype.com/intl/en/
Once the program is installed do a search for my screen name using my email address. If you don't know my email address leave a comment below and I'll send it to you. Hopefully, I'll be talking to some of you soon.
I've decided to start trying to keep in touch with people using Skype. Skype is a multi-platform computer program that allows users to make computer-to-computer voice and/or video phone calls for free as long as both computers are using the program. The program can be downloaded here:
http://skype.com/intl/en/
Once the program is installed do a search for my screen name using my email address. If you don't know my email address leave a comment below and I'll send it to you. Hopefully, I'll be talking to some of you soon.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Touring Panama
Gina came down for a visit a couple of weeks ago, and we took the opportunity to do some sight-seeing and see the country. Even though I've been down here for almost 9 months now, I haven't done much of the touristy stuff yet, so this was an opportunity to do that. We spent a couple of days seeing Casco Viejo, Panama City, and Miraflores Locks, then we headed to the San Blas islands in Kuna Yala. If you're going to visit Panama, you should really put the San Blas islands at the top of your list to visit. Don't expect luxury accomodations, just gorgeous white sand beaches and (almost) deserted islands. After San Blas, we headed up to Quebrada Grande where I marched Gina through the hills while giving her the guided tour.
One of several pretty churches in Casco Viejo.
Out for drinks and dinner in Casco Viejo.
We watched as this cargo ship passed through Miraflores Locks, because you can't come to Panama without seeing the Canal. For better or worse, Panama will always be defined by the Canal.
On our way, to Kuna Yala. We took a Land Cruiser from Panama City, and then a short boat ride out to Cartí where we were staying.
Our accomodations in Cartí. The cabana was basic, but had what you needed. That's a sand floor you see in the photo. Also, those are the clothes of the owners hanging from the ceiling. Someone lives here when there aren't guests.
Just one of the many gorgeous beaches.
Each island was surround by crystal blue water. Unfortunately, we didn't get to snorkel as much as we would've liked, because our masks leaked badly.
One of the many pelicans who fish around the islands.
Kuna fisherman tossing out their nets.
Sunset in the islands.
A Kuna woman making a mola, and a little girl checking us out.
Isla de los Diablos.
Our international group: 2 Dutch, 2 French, 2 American.
Future homeowner.
This is my chiva, which Gina got to experience in all it's drunken glory. You can fit about 23 people in the back (not comfortably.)
One of several pretty churches in Casco Viejo.
Out for drinks and dinner in Casco Viejo.
We watched as this cargo ship passed through Miraflores Locks, because you can't come to Panama without seeing the Canal. For better or worse, Panama will always be defined by the Canal.
The Canal after the ship had passed through.
On our way, to Kuna Yala. We took a Land Cruiser from Panama City, and then a short boat ride out to Cartí where we were staying.
Our accomodations in Cartí. The cabana was basic, but had what you needed. That's a sand floor you see in the photo. Also, those are the clothes of the owners hanging from the ceiling. Someone lives here when there aren't guests.
Just one of the many gorgeous beaches.
Each island was surround by crystal blue water. Unfortunately, we didn't get to snorkel as much as we would've liked, because our masks leaked badly.
One of the many pelicans who fish around the islands.
Kuna fisherman tossing out their nets.
Sunset in the islands.
A Kuna woman making a mola, and a little girl checking us out.
Isla de los Diablos.
Our international group: 2 Dutch, 2 French, 2 American.
Future homeowner.
This is my chiva, which Gina got to experience in all it's drunken glory. You can fit about 23 people in the back (not comfortably.)
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
50 books down, 150 to go
I've finished reading my first 50 books here in Panamá, and I've decided that 200 will be my goal before I leave which seems like a reasonable pace. I've noticed that they pace at which I read books strongly correlates with the number of rainy days in a month, so this list should give you an overall feel for the weather here in Panama. So please keep sending those books. If you've read any of the books and agree or disagree with my rating, please leave a comment and let me know why you agree or disagree.
The Rating System
1 - Not Worth Reading. Truly Awful. Stay Away!
2 - Not Worth the Time. It's got something to offer, but not much.
3 - An OK book. This is the Beach Read category. Good Stories with Bad Writing, and Bad Stories with Good Writing fall here.
4 - Among the best in it's genre. If you like the genre or the author, this is worth reading.
5 - An unqualified recommendation. Go read it. Now! You'll be a better person.
09/08
1. Writings on An Ethical Life - Peter Singer - 4
10/08
2. Jitterbug Perfume - Tom Robbins - 2.5
3. The Path Between the Seas - David McCullogh - 4
11/08
4. Coyote Waits - Tony Hillerman - 3.5
5. Tapestry of Spies - Stephen Hunter - 3
6. Master of the Game - Sidney Sheldon - 1
7. Flight of the Nighthawks - Raymond E. Feist - 3
8. American Gods - Neil Gaiman - 4
9. Will in the World - Stephen Greenblatt - 3
10. Finding Moon - Tony Hillerman - 2
11. A Walk in the Woods - Bill Bryson - 5
12. Angel's Flight - Michael Connelly - 4
13. The Deerslayer - James Fenimore Cooper - 2.5
14. Friday Night Lights - H.G. Bissinger - 4.5
15. The Boat of a Million Years - Poul Anderson - 3
16. The Brooklyn Follies - Paul Auster - 3
17. The Innocent Man - John Grisham - 2.5
12/08
18. Bait and Switch - Barbara Ehrenreich - 3
19. Sacred Clowns - Tony Hillerman - 3.5
20. The First Eagle - Tony Hillerman - 3
21. The Closers - Michael Connelly - 4
22. The Fallen Man - Tony Hillerman - 4
23. Hunting Badger - Tony Hillerman - 4
24. Blood Work - Tony Hillerman - 4
25. Resurrection Men - Ian Rankin - 3.5
26. The Lincoln Lawyer - Michael Connelly - 3
27. With No One As Witness - Elizabeth George - 3.5
28. The Oil and the Glory - Steve Levine - 4
01/09
29. Tourist Season - Carl Hiaasen - 3.5
30. Void Moon - Michael Connelly - 3
31. Fly on the Wall - Tony Hillerman - 2
32. Killing Rain - Barry Eisler - 3.5
33. The Best Book of Useless Information Ever - 3.5
34. Fool's Errand - Robin Hobb - 4
35. Golden Fool - Robin Hobb - 4
36. Fool's Fate - Robin Hobb - 4
37. The Cardinal of the Kremlin - Tom Clancy - 4
38. 1491 - Charles C. Mann - 4
39. The Yiddish Policeman's Union - Michael Chabon - 4
40. Black Sunday - Thomas Harris - 2.5
02/09
41. Ghost Soldiers - Hampton Sides - 5
42. Assassination Vacation - Sarah Vowell - 4.5
43. Nashville 1864 - Madison Jones - 3
44. Atonement - Ian McEwan - 3
03/09
45. The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle - Haruki Murakami - 4
46. The Audacity of Hope - Barack Obama - 3
47. An Ordinary Man - Paul Rusesabagina - 4
48. Spin - Robert Charles Wilson - 3.5
49. Obsessive Genius - Barbara Goldsmith - 3
50. The Tender Bar - J.R. Moehringer - 4
The Rating System
1 - Not Worth Reading. Truly Awful. Stay Away!
2 - Not Worth the Time. It's got something to offer, but not much.
3 - An OK book. This is the Beach Read category. Good Stories with Bad Writing, and Bad Stories with Good Writing fall here.
4 - Among the best in it's genre. If you like the genre or the author, this is worth reading.
5 - An unqualified recommendation. Go read it. Now! You'll be a better person.
09/08
1. Writings on An Ethical Life - Peter Singer - 4
10/08
2. Jitterbug Perfume - Tom Robbins - 2.5
3. The Path Between the Seas - David McCullogh - 4
11/08
4. Coyote Waits - Tony Hillerman - 3.5
5. Tapestry of Spies - Stephen Hunter - 3
6. Master of the Game - Sidney Sheldon - 1
7. Flight of the Nighthawks - Raymond E. Feist - 3
8. American Gods - Neil Gaiman - 4
9. Will in the World - Stephen Greenblatt - 3
10. Finding Moon - Tony Hillerman - 2
11. A Walk in the Woods - Bill Bryson - 5
12. Angel's Flight - Michael Connelly - 4
13. The Deerslayer - James Fenimore Cooper - 2.5
14. Friday Night Lights - H.G. Bissinger - 4.5
15. The Boat of a Million Years - Poul Anderson - 3
16. The Brooklyn Follies - Paul Auster - 3
17. The Innocent Man - John Grisham - 2.5
12/08
18. Bait and Switch - Barbara Ehrenreich - 3
19. Sacred Clowns - Tony Hillerman - 3.5
20. The First Eagle - Tony Hillerman - 3
21. The Closers - Michael Connelly - 4
22. The Fallen Man - Tony Hillerman - 4
23. Hunting Badger - Tony Hillerman - 4
24. Blood Work - Tony Hillerman - 4
25. Resurrection Men - Ian Rankin - 3.5
26. The Lincoln Lawyer - Michael Connelly - 3
27. With No One As Witness - Elizabeth George - 3.5
28. The Oil and the Glory - Steve Levine - 4
01/09
29. Tourist Season - Carl Hiaasen - 3.5
30. Void Moon - Michael Connelly - 3
31. Fly on the Wall - Tony Hillerman - 2
32. Killing Rain - Barry Eisler - 3.5
33. The Best Book of Useless Information Ever - 3.5
34. Fool's Errand - Robin Hobb - 4
35. Golden Fool - Robin Hobb - 4
36. Fool's Fate - Robin Hobb - 4
37. The Cardinal of the Kremlin - Tom Clancy - 4
38. 1491 - Charles C. Mann - 4
39. The Yiddish Policeman's Union - Michael Chabon - 4
40. Black Sunday - Thomas Harris - 2.5
02/09
41. Ghost Soldiers - Hampton Sides - 5
42. Assassination Vacation - Sarah Vowell - 4.5
43. Nashville 1864 - Madison Jones - 3
44. Atonement - Ian McEwan - 3
03/09
45. The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle - Haruki Murakami - 4
46. The Audacity of Hope - Barack Obama - 3
47. An Ordinary Man - Paul Rusesabagina - 4
48. Spin - Robert Charles Wilson - 3.5
49. Obsessive Genius - Barbara Goldsmith - 3
50. The Tender Bar - J.R. Moehringer - 4
Scenes from the Isthmus
Here are a few pictures that I didn't have anyplace else to put.
This is a guayacane which is sort of the arboreal mascot of Coclé. This picture doesn't do them justice. They are bright yellow, and sort of glow in the middle of the green jungle. I think planting a forest of these and then waiting 50 years for them to grow to full size and bloom would be worth the wait. I keep picturing what that would look like. Sort of a yellow version of Japan's cherry blossoms.
I caught this woodpecker enjoying an orange one day. This was taken 3o feet from my new house.
Rats 1. Shirts 0.
These are Marañon. Believe it or not, these are where cashews come from. Each one of these fruits contains one cashew nut. The fruits themselves are edible and taste a little like apples except not as juicy and with the texture of styrofoam, which isnt as bad as it sounds.
This path was cut by leaf cutter ants, and is probably over 300 feet long in total. Back in the states, I'd see leaf cutter ants in zoos and think how unusal and exotic, but down here they are everywhere. I have nothing but respect for them though. With every rain their house gets washed out (and it rains ALOT,) but they just keep building and never stop. Keep it up guys. Don't listen to anything that silly grasshopper has to say.
Full moon. I thought I'd test out the zoom on my camera one night, and the picture came out well.
This is a guayacane which is sort of the arboreal mascot of Coclé. This picture doesn't do them justice. They are bright yellow, and sort of glow in the middle of the green jungle. I think planting a forest of these and then waiting 50 years for them to grow to full size and bloom would be worth the wait. I keep picturing what that would look like. Sort of a yellow version of Japan's cherry blossoms.
This is a general map of my site from San Miguel Centro at the bottom.
I caught this woodpecker enjoying an orange one day. This was taken 3o feet from my new house.
Rats 1. Shirts 0.
These are Marañon. Believe it or not, these are where cashews come from. Each one of these fruits contains one cashew nut. The fruits themselves are edible and taste a little like apples except not as juicy and with the texture of styrofoam, which isnt as bad as it sounds.
This path was cut by leaf cutter ants, and is probably over 300 feet long in total. Back in the states, I'd see leaf cutter ants in zoos and think how unusal and exotic, but down here they are everywhere. I have nothing but respect for them though. With every rain their house gets washed out (and it rains ALOT,) but they just keep building and never stop. Keep it up guys. Don't listen to anything that silly grasshopper has to say.
Full moon. I thought I'd test out the zoom on my camera one night, and the picture came out well.
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